Skin and sun: prepare, protect and prolong your tan naturally

The sun is a true source of energy for our planet Earth. It emits both light energy, thermal energy and ultraviolet rays, more commonly called UV. The latter are invisible, do not heat and can be classified into three categories according to their wavelength, biological activity and power of penetration of the skin:

• tHE UVA, whose wavelength is long, are the most penetrating UV rays. They reach our epidermis and can even penetrate deep into the skin, up to the dermis. They are responsible for an immediate tanning effect, but also for premature aging of the skin.
• tHE UVB, whose wavelength is medium, are partly absorbed by the atmosphere and fortunately, because they exhibit significant biological activity. Although they “only” reach the first layers of the epidermis, they are responsible for burns and delayed tanning. They promote aging and skin cancers.
• tHE UVC, whose wavelength is short, are the most harmful, but they are stopped by the atmosphere which absorbs them; they do not reach the surface of the Earth.

Many environmental factors can also influence an individual's UV exposure such as time of day, seasonality, altitude, but also latitude or the presence of clouds. The latter determine a UV index or UV index which expresses the intensity of UV. The higher the index, the higher the risk and you will need to protect yourself.

The harmful effects of the sun

Studies on UVC, UVB and even more recently UVA rays conclude that in addition to sunburn, tanning and premature skin aging, UV rays also promote the development of skin cancers. Other harmful effects may be observed after exposure such as acne, pigment spots, drying of the skin, a drop in skin immunity due to destruction of certain cells, etc. So, in addition to limiting your exposure to the sun, it is important to prepare your skin for the sun and above all to protect it.

To protect yourself, the sun protection available on the market is varied and regulated. Of the protection indices (IP or SPF in English Sun Protection Factor) are determined by standardized laboratory tests, in vitro, authorized and displayed on the products in question. The IP measures the ability of a cosmetic product/formula to filter UVB, and part of UVA. The IP appears encrypted; 15, 20, 30 or even 50 are indices found on sun protection, the highest index having the strongest protection. Below 15, the protection is low, between 15 and 30 it is medium and above this we speak of high protection. How is this IP measured? The calculation is quite simple and is based on the time it takes to get sunburned, without or with protection 20, 30 or 50 for example. Theoretically, a person who gets sunburned in 15 minutes without sun protection will get sunburned after 5 hours with IP 20 protection (15x20 = 300 minutes). In practice, it is always advisable to renew the protection after 2 hours of application because many other criteria come into play (skin phototype, climate and UV intensity, etc.).

The benefits of the sun 

Prolonged exposure is risky, however UV rays also have benefits. They play an essential role in the synthesis of the vitamin D, since 70% of the latter is produced thanks to UV; the remaining 30% comes from food. Vitamin D is essential for the bone, muscle and immune system of our body. In addition, it is recognized that the sun has a real positive impact on mood and well-being. Appropriate exposure to the sun is therefore recommended, 15 to 20 minutes depending on skin type, and preferably in the morning or late afternoon when UV rays are less aggressive.

Diet has a real role to play when we seek to tan and more precisely to better prepare our skin for the arrival of the first rays of sun. On the one hand, certain nutrients participate in the synthesis of melanin by stimulating its production. On the other hand, there are so-called nutrients “antioxidants” which act at two levels. They can either directly neutralize the free radicals produced during exposure to the sun, or interfere with other substances in the chain of oxidation reactions, thus limiting the latter.

To stimulate melanin production, carotenoids (alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene, zeaxanthin) are preferred. We find these pigments in plants, they are also what give their color (yellow, red, green, orange). THE copper is also a trace element involved in the production of melanin. It is then possible to consume the following foods daily, one month before exposure:

• Fruits and vegetables : Sweet potatoes, carrots, pumpkins, cabbage, spinach, salads, pumpkins, melons, apricots, mangoes, peppers, tomatoes and morello cherries are sources of beta-carotene. Tomatoes cooked with their skins, guava, watermelon and grapefruit contain lycopene. Cabbage, watercress, spinach, chard, zucchini and leek are rich in lutein and zeaxanthin. It is recommended to respect the seasonality of fruits and vegetables: seasonal plants will be more nutritionally interesting. If the equivalent of half of your plate is represented by these plants, you will put maximum luck on your side to obtain a tanned complexion.

• Spices and aromatic herbs: cumin, pepper, turmeric, paprika but also parsley, coriander, sage, basil, thyme, chives, oregano and mint are spices and aromatic herbs that are easy sources of copper and carotenoids. to introduce into the daily diet.

• Dried seaweed: a little less common, dried seaweed is nevertheless very rich in beta-carotene. We find Japanese kombu, wakame, dulse, bladderwrack and sea bean. On average, less than 5 g of dried algae are enough to meet the daily beta-carotene needs.

• Seeds and nuts: nuts are vectors of antioxidants and copper. It is wise to add a handful of oilseeds and nuts to your diet per day to hope for beautiful tanned skin.

• Special case of Urucum: This achiote fruit, native to South America, contains small red seeds extremely rich in beta-carotene: around 1305 mg per 100 g. Less than one gram of Urucum powder covers the daily beta-carotene requirement.

To find out more, do not hesitate to consult our article dedicated to tan booster foods. 

Preparing the skin for tanning also happens externally. Skin cells renew themselves on a 28-day cycle. Dead, whitish cells then appear on the surface of drier-looking skin. The elimination of these cells by exfoliation of the skin is important to promote, among other things, the cell renewal, slow down skin aging and facilitate the penetration of moisturizing and protective treatments. Depending on your skin type and body part, it is useful to adapt the scrub used.

Clays can be used. L'White kaolin clay ultra-ventilated will be particularly suitable for the most sensitive skin. For other skins and the body for example, theRhassoul clay, l'Green clay and theBlue clay Illite and/or Montmorillonite are more suitable. Clays in powder form should be mixed with water or a hydrosol and vegetable oil to gently exfoliate in the shower, for example.

Other exfoliations are possible with natural extracts or gloves, you will find them in more detail in this guide to skin exfoliation.

Treatments based on vegetable oils and oily macerates help promote tanning while nourishing the skin. The fatty acids contained in these oils and oily macerates participate in the synthesis of phospholipids. The latter structure the cellular membranes of the skin, fatty acids provide flexibility and protection to all layers of the skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis). In addition, the following natural extracts are known for their richness in beta carotene capable of activating the synthesis of melanin, natural and dark pigments of the skin responsible for its coloring.

• Carrot oily macerate: it is yellow to orange in color which initially gives a tanned complexion. In preparation for exposure to the sun, carrot oil macerate should be applied to the skin, 3 weeks before exposure.

• Buriti vegetable oil: it also has an atypical color, orange to red, for a healthy glow after application. It can also color your usual day cream or be diluted in another vegetable oil for skin care.

• Vegetable oil or Tucuma butter: it is also rich in beta-carotene and omega-3. To avoid spoiling anything, this oil is rich in vitamin E. Its use as a skin application prepares the skin for the sun and, like the vegetable oils mentioned above, allows you to stock up on carotenoids.

Although it has many benefits essential for the proper functioning of the body (source of vitamin D, increased morale with increasing levels of dopamine and serotonin, healthy glow, etc.), the sun also requires very particular vigilance. To limit sunburn, in addition to limiting exposure, it is important to filter UV rays.

THE vegetal oils are of particular interest to those who want to limit their use of various cosmetic products and extended formulations. Here, the interest of vegetable oils lies in a single ingredient: the oil extracted from their seeds or fruits. Certain oils are rich in protective unsaponifiables and antioxidants, in addition to providing emollient care via their fatty acid composition. Some even naturally have a sun protection factor called SPF. The vegetable oils tested appear to absorb in the UVB absorption spectrum (290–320 nm) primarily. However, studies also demonstrate the use of vegetable oils in a cosmetic formulation (+ UVA filter) in this case and/or in addition to sun protection.

• Raspberry vegetable oil is little known and yet it has a sun protection index of between 28 and 50. It can therefore be used to absorb certain UVA and especially UVB. In addition to these protective properties, raspberry seed vegetable oil is antioxidant. It is particularly rich in vitamin E, gallic acid and carotenoids which help prevent fine lines and other signs of skin aging. Note that it is also composed of a significant proportion of omega-3, anti-inflammatory, with soothing properties for the skin.

• Karanja vegetable oil is rich in pongamol and karanjin, two compounds known for their anti UVA and anti UVB properties. In fact, according to laboratory tests, they have the capacity to absorb and filter part of UV rays and an IP (or SPF) of around 30.

• It would seem that the pomegranate seed oils and of Wheat germ also benefit from interesting skin protective and anti-oxidant properties to protect against the sun. These are oils particularly recognized for their richness in vitamin E, provitamin A (beta-carotene) and phytosterols. Wheat germ oil can also be ingested, as a 3-week treatment, at a rate of one teaspoon per day to protect the skin before but also after sun exposure.

• THE shea Butter is rich in restorative and protective unsaponifiables, notably vitamin A, but also karitene and cinnamic acid. Shea helps complete the action of sun filters in protective products. In fact, it serves as a UV screen, but is not considered a total screen. Be careful, this is not a sunscreen. In the same way as Shea butter, Avocado oil has a similar action, it is also rich in unsaponifiables of interest.

Obviously, these protections cannot replace sunscreens which offer greater protection, for prolonged exposures. In all cases, it is important to note that vigilance is required in the event of sun exposure: excess sun can harm the health of the skin.

After exposure to the sun, it is important to nourish the skin, l’appease and give it special care anti-oxidant to limit sun damage and discomfort to the skin (premature signs of aging). For this we can count on active ingredients such as vitamin E, vitamin C, phytosterols and many others.

Among vegetable oils and oily macerates, calendula oily macerate is essential to have to soothe the skin. Naturally containing faradiol, it will relieve redness and inflammation. Its fatty acids act as a moisturizer and softener.

At the same time, therosehip vegetable oil helps repair cell membranes damaged by the sun, it regenerates the skin.

L'coconut vegetable oil and the Monoï oily macerate, delicately scented, provide an interesting and pleasant moisturizing treatment.

Vegetable oils can be added with aromatherapy treatments. L’lavender Aspic essential oil is composed of linalool and camphor, it is an analgesic for the skin and helps in particular to soothe the skin in the event of sunburn. It is generally diluted to 20% in vegetable oil and replaced with diluted fine or real lavender for younger children. Celery or Carrot essential oils are useful in cases of pigmentation spots, from 6 years of age by cutaneous use diluted to 5%. In case of acne, appearing in certain cases post-exposure, it is possible to turn to Tea Tree essential oil, a major anti-infectious agent. Finally, to soothe the skin and hydrate it, combining aloe vera gel with a vegetable oil is often beneficial.

This step of scrubbing and exfoliation allows both to prepare the skin for the sun but also to prolong the tan: cell renewal is continuous! You can refer to the tips given above.

Photosensitization (or phototoxicity) corresponds to a overreaction of the skin and the immune system against UV rays. This reaction takes place following the encounter of UV rays and a so-called photosensitizing substance. It results in redness (sunburn), abnormal coloring of the skin, sometimes spots and itching similar to an allergy to the sun. Certain medications, essential oils but also certain medicinal plants are involved.

Essential oils containing bicyclic aromatic molecules like the coumarins are called photosensitizing, or phototoxic. These molecules are often found in trace form in essential oils obtained by expression such as citrus essences, but not only. We can cite Lemon essential oil, Bergamot essential oil, Mandarin essential oils, Orange essential oils, but also Angelica, Fennel and Khella essential oils. This list is not exhaustive. For these oils, care must be taken not to expose the skin to the sun for 8 to 12 hours after application or ingestion. This is why there are citrus essential oils without coumarins.

St. John's Wort is composed of hypericin which appears to be the incriminated molecule. It is a plant that is generally used in the form of an oily macerate. Whether or not you know the exact concentration of hypericin in your St. John's Wort extract, it is best to avoid its application if you plan to expose yourself to the sun within 8 to 12 hours. However, the oily macerate of St. John's Wort is useful for relieving burns, redness and sunburn. It is anti-inflammatory, analgesic and promotes skin regeneration. Applying it following a sunburn is not inconsistent since you will not be exposed to the sun for a few days if you suffer from your burns.